by Nusrat Ara
-Indian-Administered Kashmir-
It is Sunday noon. I am standing outside the only functional cinema in all of Indian administered Kashmir.
Located in the city of Srinagar, the shabby Neelam Cinema sits quiet. It looks more like a war torn military post, with coils of razor wire and bunkers, than a cinema. A paramilitary guard looks out from a bunker above as we approach the tin door. “No film today,” he says. “Go back.”
• The Neelam Cinema, Srinagar, Kashmir. Photograph by Nusrat Ara.
• Cinema halls were a big business in Kashmir before the outbreak of armed insurgency against Indian rule in 1989. There were nine halls in Srinagar alone, all doing great business, before Muslim separatists called for their closure for being “un-Islamic.”
“I would ditch school to watch a movie. It was difficult at times to get a ticket from the counter. Mostly we had to rely on the black market,” said businessman Shameem Ahmad, 38, about the pre-insurgency days.
The guard lets us in only after we convince him we have to meet the manager.
Inside we learn that they have been waiting for a movie to arrive for three days. “We are getting it by this afternoon,” Muhammad Ayub, the projector operator tells us. The big poster for a film assures us that we are in the right place.