After the insanity of the flower festival in August, I took a much needed vacation to the small lake town of Guatape. The town is located next to a large reservoir that was built in the late 60's for a hydroelectric dam project. Although most of the power from this reservoir is exported to Venezuela, the lake is frequently used for fishing, a variety of water sports and other boating activities. Next to Guatape is a large, 200 meter high rock monolith (called "El Peñón" by the locals), that was formed over 70 million years ago along the Antioquia rock base. The rock is the most popular tourist attraction in the town, as travelers can climb to the top using the 644 step brick-and-mortar staircase that leads to a spectacular viewpoint of the surrounding lakes and quaint villages. The center of the Guatape is also an attraction in itself, with beautifully decorated and colorful paintings on the sides of each building.

The entire time I was in Guatape, I had the feeling that I was enjoying a place that was about to get hit with tourism, and that I was one of the lucky few that had come before it was "discovered". Being in such a pleasant place close to nature with a laid-back vibe really helped me recharge my batteries and prepare for another stint at hostel management. I am glad that I took the opportunity to go, as I now have a great place to spend the weekend when the city life becomes overwhelming.

- Brent

For two weeks from the end of July to the beginning of August, Medellin has its biggest festival, La Feria De Las Flores (The Flower Festival). During the time, the city is filled with people from all over the world, who come to see the many parades, free concerts and other 130 events that are packed into the 2 week period. The fair, was originally created in 1956 to celebrate independence of the region of Antioquia and the peak time for the blooming of local flowers.

The second most popular parade is the "Desfile de Autos Antiguos" (Old Cars Parade), where citizens with cars older than 1980 can showcase them in a city parade. The main parade, and the culmination of the festival, is the "Desfile de Silleteros", (Parade of Flowers) where locals carry large and colorful flower decorations on their back, displaying the rich variety of Flora that Colombia has to offer. After the event, a major fiesta commences, where everyone in the city consumes large qualities of Aguardiente, the national licorice-flavored alcoholic drink until the sun comes up the next day.

For Hostels, the flower festival is the peak time for tourism, as backpackers swarm to Medellin from all over the Colombia to find cheap accommodation and enjoy the festival. As it was our first year with the festival, we were not exactly sure what to expect. However, come the first day of the festival, we were absolutely slammed with reservations. Almost over night, we went from 15 to 36 guests, our absolute maximum. We even had some slightly desperate backpackers sleeping in hammocks, extra couches or whatever sleeping space they could find around the hostel.

On a final note, its great to be back in Medellin and working in the Hostel after finally finishing graduate school. Although it was slightly overwhelming going straight into the flower festival immediately after arriving, it helped me quickly get back into the swing of hostel management. I have 4 more months left before Miles comes back, so its good that I have some experience under my belt from one of the hostel's craziest times thus far.

Hair culture in Colombia is something men take very seriously. While the euro mullet has made its impact on Medellín, it isn't the end-all of haircuts. Men here keep it short and trimmed, with barbers often spending more time on sideburns than on the entire haircut. For this reason, haircuts are extremely cheap, often no more than $2-4.

I'm always quick to specify my desire to avoid the "business in front, party in back" style, which this time, elicited a large smile from the elder barber who told me "those kids look like little rat gangsters anyways." He then proceeded to ask me about where I was from, what I was doing, etc. Then the conversation turned to religion. When asked about religion, I always say the religion of my family (historically Protestant), just because Catholicism is so important here and I'd hate to be figured for some Godless gringo. "So what are you protesting?" he chuckled, before quipping some ancedotes about the Pope and Martin Luther.

I asked him if he was Catholic and he laughed, asking what makes one Catholic, appearing to be dissolusioned with mainstream Colombia's interpretation. He then started to talk about the "Pachamama" or Mother-Nature spirit of all living things: "The most true spirits that I have observed are with the indigenas (indigenous peoples) and their ceremonies. They have a profound respect for all things living and a strict adherence to a set of codes that is existent virtually nowhere in Western religion." My barber said he attempts to embody the indigenous respect for nature, while at the same time, deriving morality from history and his own personal experience. "Un humanista secular!" I proclaimed, sharing some of this world view. "Well son, I wouldn't say secular, because whether you think it's one God or twelve, there is a little bit of it influencing the things that are beyond our capacity to comprehend." Not what I was expecting for a $3 hair cut.

- Miles

Clad in matching lycra outfits, these titans of vertical cycling are hill conquerors in the mold of local Cochise Rodriguez (of Tour de France fame). Sometimes you can spot them on the flats, but these guys crave the burn and subsequent release of grinding their way up the steep slopes of the hills going out of Medellín and cruising back down in a quarter of the time. Yesterday I found a pack of semi-weekend warriors headed to Caldas and tagged along for the ride.

The city of Caldas is about 20 miles from Medellín, on a windy mountain road. It’s a gradual climb for about 45 minutes with a couple big hills. But the main traffic and buses that whisk around corners are few and infrequent on Sundays. I’d previously been to Caldas to purchase furniture and ceramics for the hostel, but as every trip by car, you end up missing the details of the journey, especially the sights and sounds.

Caldas’ main square was moving at half-speed as the whole town lazily enjoyed a Sunday afternoon. And it was then that I saw him: Moustachioed wrinkled face, as well worn as the cowboy hat he was wearing, a freshly washed pancho slung over his shoulder and a big gold belt buckle catching the suns’ rays. This man was the OG Paisa. He was flanked by an entourage of similar-looking gentlemen with freshly ironed shirts, nice boots and panchos, but his moustache, hat, and demeanor demonstrated that he was the true leader of the pack.

As locals sauntered by, he quipped small jokes about women and the weather and the afternoon seemed to roll on, with every man over the age of forty-five dropping by OG Paisa’s bench. Backing up the whole scene was a troupe of local musicians, cranking out one classic after another and dueling with a duet of indigenous women singing ‘musica folklorica.’ The whole scene was indicative of many of the smaller towns outside of Medellín, but the accessibility by bike is what made it such a great experience to take in; that and the OG Paisa, who I may have to talk to the next time I’m there.

-Miles

Those of you who know me well know that I am quite the fan of microbrews, of which there are very few in Latin America. The best beer scene I've experienced was at the Largest Oktoberfest outside of Germany in Villa General Belgrano, Argentina. Throughout my travels in L. Am, I've noticed a direct correlation between light beers and hot climates. I mean, when it's 90 degrees out with 90% humidity, a Stout or Porter isn't really your go-to beverage.

That being said, the lighter pilsner-style lagers that are ubiquitous in Colombia (and the rest of near-Equator countries) all begin to taste the same after a while. In Bogota, a BJ's Brewhouse-type restaurant has sprung up recently called "Bogota Beer Company." Their house beers are quite delicious, as well as having an impressive selection of European imports. 4 years ago, Medellín made its foray into the world of "cerveza artesanal" (microbrews) with the beginning of the 3 Cordilleras Brewery. These guys have quite an impact on the tourist-frequented areas, with most places having taps for the 3 types: a hefewiesen, a pale ale and an amber ale. As you can see below, we're putting the finishing touches on The Wandering Paisa bar and last week, were able to get 3 Cordilleras on tap:

Needless to say, we are excited about having our first event with the bar this upcoming friday. As the bar is still yet unnamed, we are having a contest to see who can come up with the best name! (the winner gets a bottle of tequila) So far, the names we have brainstormed are: "The Stumbling Paisa", "Paisa Bar", "Paisa Pub". We will let you know the results when its finished! Until next time!

-Miles (and Brent)

After two weeks experiencing the general sheistiness that characterizes much of Ecuador, while listening to travelers’ ill-informed and negative views of Colombia, Miles and I have come to the conclusion that the reputations of the two countries are completely reversed.

The first indication that Ecuador would be a bit sketchy came from the Rough Guide warning against taking night buses. Having traveled by night buses all over Asia and with no trouble in Colombia, we at first questioned the warning but soon heard several stories from other travelers that confirmed the danger. Nearly everyone we met had tales of stolen bags or belongings along with a few more sinister stories about late night hijackings. I have never seen an in-country reputation put travelers so on edge; we actually saw two girls ride with their giant backpacks on their laps for an entire four-hour bus trip in the middle of the afternoon.

Add in the numerous people trying, and often succeeding to cheat us at nearly every payment, and you can see why Miles and I were taken aback that people happily traveling in Ecuador still expressed wariness with regard to Colombia. It just goes to show how much work still needs to be done on Colombia’s part to move away from the bad reputation still lingering from earlier decades. I know that Miles and I did our part by acting as ambassadors of the new and improved Colombia, and perhaps handing out a few Wandering Paisa business cards here and there.

--

It’s our last two hours in Ecuador and Miles and I are enjoying a nice, quiet lunch in a restaurant just outside the Quito airport in between flights. We finish our meal, Miles leaves the table for a few minutes, and a woman asks me a question in mumbled Spanish. As I struggle to understand, she seemingly gives up and leaves the restaurant. I’m still puzzling over the interaction when Miles returns and that’s when we notice the missing bag. Miles sprints outside and talks to the security guard who had been giving a passerby directions and therefore only vaguely aware of someone walking out past him. And just when we thought we’d made it out of the country without our own theft story, we’ve been hit by a three-man sting operation.

Fortunately for us, these Ecuadorian thieves are not as smart as they are ubiquitous. I’m not sure exactly what they intended to do with a backpack full of damp and dirty traveler’s clothes but it’s lucky for us that they opted for that bag. In the end, Miles lost his clothes, gifts, and apartment decorations that we’d bought but retained passport, iPod, camera, and wallet. He managed to remain very Zen about the loss of his material possessions, but I’d say we were more than ready to return to the tranquility of our home in “big, scary Medellin.”

- Elizabeth

Over the past 3 weeks, I have met over 50 different travelers from at least 20 different countries. The majority of the guests have been extremely open, friendly and respectful of others. It makes me realize that traveling really is a form of international diplomacy, where hostels can be a melting pot for individuals from different cultures and life experiences to come together and discuss a plethora of topics. As my friend Kjetil (pronounced "SHI-TELL") from Norway calls them, these "Mini UN congregations" are one of the greatest parts of traveling, as individuals can return to their respective home countries with a more positive and open view of the other cultures and peoples that inhabit our world. Interestingly, Kjetil also remarked that this phenomena is true in Norway, where Norwegians who live closer to the border of Sweden are much less likely to be xenophobic than those who are isolated in the western and northern regions of the country.

• Kjetil and friends. Photo courtesy of the author.•

Brent

• Photo courtesy of the author.•

It is unbelievable how much the hostel has changed since I was last here in August. When I left, we were knee deep in the process of renovations and constructing new bathrooms. When I arrived two weeks ago and saw the finished job, I was taken aback by the transformation: The drab white walls had now been turned into works of art by local artists, the garage was upgraded to a fully functioning bar, and the once ugly hottub backspace is now a wooden music stage where most residents enjoy their meals in the sun.

• Photo courtesy of the author.•

Miles and Elizabeth get back in two days, and I am excited to spend my last week here in Medellin with them and share all the tales of the many many interesting guests we've had in the last two weeks. More soon.

Brent

My first excursion in Medellin was to take the gondola up one of the hillsides. The gondola is an extension of the metro and is boarded using the same ticket. Its purpose is to transport locals up the incredibly steep slope to their houses but given the view and the exposure to a distinctively different area of the city it also makes a great tourist attraction.

Another reason to board the gondola is the Spain Library located at the top. Once again, this library is intended and used for local purposes, but doubles as an interesting site for anyone visiting the city. It is a huge structure perched precariously on the hillside and looking out over the entire valley of Medellin. When Miles and I went inside we had to make our way through crowds of children; turns out the Spain Library serves as a childcare center during the day. Unlike the Seattle Library, where the interior matches the sharp, angular exterior just a bit too much, the Spain Library manages to combine an architecturally interesting exterior with a comfortable and functional interior that begs to be used by the community.

The gondola is actually featured on the Wandering Paisa business cards and is the perfect example of the Medellin experiences of which Miles and Brent hope to encourage travelers to take advantage. I already feel that our trip up the gondola represents an aspect of the city that I’m going to love. The Medellin that I’ve been hearing about from Miles and am finally getting to see for myself is not touristy. The areas I’ve seen are not crowded with foreigners and they are not designed to attract tourists but rather to improve the life of locals. It just happens to be Medellin’s good fortune that they have designed transport systems and constructed architecture in a manner so efficient and pleasing to the eye that it is sure to be enjoyed by locals and foreigners alike.

As always, there are two sides to every city, and I know that there are more tourist-centric areas of Medellin, but I’m happy to stick to this one.

- Elizabeth
http://elizabethacsewell.blogspot.com/

Since February, Brent and I have been focusing our efforts towards establishing a backpacker’s hostel here in Medellín. It’s not that Medellín is lacking in hostels, it’s that all of them are concentrated in one area. From my previous posts, you can probably gauge that I don’t hold Poblado in high regard as a tourist area. I’ve stayed in almost half the hostels in Medellín and most of those in Poblado are like every other business there: expensive, touristy and without a deep connection to any of the cultural aspects of the city. Throw in the excessive drug use (by tourists) and prostitution, and you can see why it’s not the most pleasant place to stay in Medellín. Granted, these were things that drew tourists to Medellín during the period of violence that plagued the country not too long ago, but now there are a plethora of amazing tourist activities that tourists may be missing out on by staying in the Poblado party zone.

I first noticed the difference during my month+ stay at Hostel Casa del Sol, one of the bigger hostels outside of El Poblado. Just off the Floresta Metro stop, I noticed a huge drop (read: half of everything) in the prices of food, drinks and other services compared to Poblado. More importantly, I wasn’t pestered by chicle vendors selling drugs and the people I encountered treated me more like a human being, rather than a source of tourist dollars. My eyes were permanently opened to all of the safe, spectacular sights that were closer to my residence, not to mention not having to walk up and down a hill all day. (Spanish speakers can about how petty crime and drug use is much greater in areas like El Poblado here).

After months of planning, business plan writing, bank shuffling and searching, Brent, Federico and I came across our dream location: right in Laureles off la 70. Not too far from Hostel Casa del Sol, La 70 is the local “zona rosa,” meaning cheap drinks, affordable restaurants and great live music, not to mention getting to rub elbows with real Colombians on their nights off. Our choice of location was confirmed by a “Rough Guides” travel book editor during our stay at a hostel in Poblado. A woman updating their guide book chapter on Medellín happened to run into my brother and I during our stay in an El Poblado hostel. “I hate it here,” she proclaimed, “everyone in the clubs is on drugs, they play American music and the prices here are outrageous.” She then asked if we had any other suggestions for more cultural activities in the city. We were more than happy to point out our favorite Medellín tourist destinations: Cerros Nutibara and Volador, Parque Arvi, La 33 and of course, La 70. If she did in fact, head to any of those places, it will aid us in establishing a fun, safe, professional and comfortable tourist destination in a new part of the city.

-Miles Knowles